Process of making shoes



June 17, 1930. A. L, JUNG 1,764,105

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES' Filed July 28, 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 ATTOR EUS /7 INUENTOR.

Jun e 17, 1930. A. JUNG 1,764,105

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES Filed July 28, 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INUENTOR.

ATTORNEUJ g wa w.

Patented June 31?, E232 TZTES ALVIN L. JUNG, F MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN, ASSIGNOR T0 ALBERT H. WEINBRENNER @OMPANY, 03F MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN, A CQRPORATION OF WISCONSIN FROOESS OF MAKING- SHOES ..pp1ication filed July 28, 1928. Serial No. 295,978.

This invention relates to a process of making shoes and particularly to the manufacture of shoes in which thesole is attached to the outturned margin of the upper and which are commonly termed stitch-downs? I Usually in shoes of this kind an insole 1s first secured to the last, the lining is lasted inwardly and the upper is lasted outwardly either to a midsole or an outsole. It lasted 3p direct to the outer sole the shoes cannot readily be resoled. If lasted to a mldsole the outer sole can be readily renewed but three plies of leather are necessary. According to the present invention, the last 1s provided with a sole late of hard material preferably metal, whlch is a counterpart 0% the usual inner sole, the last also being preferably bevelled along the bottom edge from the shank forwardly. What corresponds to an the midsole of the usual stitch-down shoe is then secured to the last and the upper is lasted to this, after which the outsole and welt are secured to this sole, as more particularly described in detail. The result of this process is the production of a stitchdown shoe which has all the advantages of the usual three-sole stitch-down shoe but in which the inner sole as such and the usual operations thereon are eliminated, the sole td which the upper is lasted also acting as an inner sole and a heel seat. Furthermore,

the lining, if used, is lasted outwardly, thus increasing the strength of the shoe, and preferably the upper and lining are lasted inwardly over the heel seat, which improves the appearance of the shoe. I

ther objects and novel features will appear from the following description and claims when considered in connection with the accompanying drawings in which Fig. is a perspective view showing the novel last;

2 is a perspective view showing the first step of the process;

- Fig. 2 is a view illustrating the next step of the process;

Fig. 4: is a detail sectional view taken on the line 4-4; of Fig. 3;

- Fig. dis a perspective view of the shoe 59 after lasting;

against said sole plate, whereb Fig. 6 is a View of the completed shoe;

Fig. 7 is a detail sectional view taken on the line 77 of Fig. 5;

Fig. 8 is a detail sectional view taken on the line 8-8 of Fig. 6.

Referring to Fig. 1 the numeral 9 designates a last, here shown as of the usual jointed construction, said last, however, being preferably bevelled along its bottom edge forwardly of the shank, as indicated at 10, and 11 designates a sole plate secured to the last and formed to the same shape as the usual inner sole. This plate is here shown in two sections, one attached to each part of the last, and is of a hard material, preferably metal, so that when staples are used this plate acts as a deflector and thus preserves the last and permits, in cooperation with the bevel edge 10, an efficient forcing of the angle of the upper into this bevel and the inner edge of the welt may be broug t into this crease or angle after lasting, thereby improving the lines of the shoe and insuring a proper and accurate shaping of the upper to the last. I

To this last a sole member 12 is secured temporarily by tacks 13 which pass through openings 14 in the plate 11 into the wooden last. This sole member is cut to provide an outer portion 15 projecting beyond the edge of the plate 11 to take the outturned edge of the upper but, from the shank rearwardly, has a heel seat portion 16 conforming to the shape of the inner sole plate 11. With this sole member on the last the previously prepared upper 17, which may be and preferably is provided with a lining 18, is lasted to this sole member 12. At the heel seat portion of the shoe the upper 17 and lining 18 are lasted-inwardly over the sole member 12, the inturned margins being indicated by the numerals 19 and 20'. A counter 21, which is interposed between the lining and the upper, has an inturned flange 22 which is also secured to the sole 12. These parts may be secured in any suitable manner by either adhesive, tacks, or both, the tacks 23 being driven into the sole member 12 and clinched against the plate 11. This pro- That portion of the upper 17 forwardly of the shank together with the lining, when used, is then lasted to the outer portion of the sole 12, either by cementing, stitching or stapling, the upper'and lining being pros gressively sha ed to the sole plate portions of the last an forced into the angle formed by the bevel of the last. In Figs. 5 and 7 I have shown staples 24 which firmly secure the upper to the sole 12 closely to the angle, the edge of the plate 11 forming an accurate template for stapling and deflecting the stpples from the last proper to preserve its li e.

To the outturned edge or margin 25 of the upper, the outturned edge or margin 26 of the lining and the projectin portion 15 of the sole 12, the welt 27 and t e outer sole 28 are secured by stitching 29. v

A heel lift'30 is preferably secured to the heel seat and the heel seat portion of the outsole secured to it by suitable fastening means, and a heel 31 may then be secured to the outsole at the heel seat portion of the shoe. Thereafter the sole edges and heel portions of the shoe are trimmed to form the finished shoe shown in Fig. 6.

It will be understood that some of the novel steps of the invention may be racticed without the use of other stepsan certain advantages of the invention be obtained and that various changes in certain of the steps may be varied without affecting the others.

The novel shoe produced by the process described is not herein claimed but is made the subject matter of a separate application, Serial No. 295,977, filed July 28, 1928.

What I claim as my invention is:

1. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises providing a last with a sole plate portion conforming to the shape of an inner sole, assembling upon the last a sole member having a heel seat portion conforming to the heel seat ortion of said sole plate portion and a so e portion having a part projecting beyond said sole plate forwardly of said heel seat portion, assembling an upper upon the last, turning out. the lower margin of the upper for wardly of the heel seat adjacent theprojecting portion of said sole member and progressively shaping the upper to the last against the edge of said sole plate portion and permanent securing said upper to said sole member a jacent said sole plate portion, lasting the upper inwardly over the heel seat portion of the last and securing it to the heel seat portion of said member,

laying a welt upon :the outturned margin of the upper and outsole upon said sole the last a sole member having a heel seat,

portion conforming to the heel seat portion of. said sole plate portion and a sole portion having apart fprojecting beyond said sole plate portion orwardly of the heel seat, assembling an upper and its lining upon the last, securing the inturned marginal ortions of the upper and lining and the eel seat portion of said sole member, turning out the lower margins of the upper and lining forwardlyof the heel seat adjacent the projecting portion of said sole member and progressively shaping the upper and lining to the last and against the edge of itssole plate portion, and permanently securing said upper to said sole member adjacent said sole plate portion, laying a welt upon the outturned margin of sand upper and the outer sole upon said sole member, and uniting the welt, upper, lining and sole members.

3. That-improvement in the art of making shoes. which comprises providing a last with a sole plate portion conforming to the shape of an inner sole, assembling uponthe last a sole member having a heel seat portion conforming to the heel seat ortion of said sole plate portion and asol having a part projecting beyond said sole plate portion, assembling an upper and its lining with a counter interposed between the upper and the lining and having an inturned flange u on the last, securing the inturned flange o the counter with the adjacent inturned marginal portions of the upper and lining to the heel seat portion of said sole member, turning out the lower margin of the upper and lining forwardly of the heel seat adjacent the projecting portion of said sole member, and progressively shaping the upper and lining to the last and against the edge of its sole plate portion and permanently securing said upper to said sole member adjacent said sole plate portion, laying a welt upon the outturned margin of said upper and an outer sole upon said sole member, and uniting the welt, upper and sole members.

4. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises lasting and securing an upper and its lining and a counter having an inturned flange directly to the inner sole, said upper and lining having e portion their marginal portions from the shank for- Y wardly turned outwardly and from the shank rearwardly turned inwardly with the inturned flange of the counter over the heel seat of said inner sole, securing a heel lift to said heel seat of said inner sole, la ing a welt upon the out-turned portion of t e upper, and securing an ,outsole to said inner sole, lining, upper and welt at the outturned portion of the upper and from the shank rearwardly to said heel lift and the heel seat portion of the inner sole.

' In testimony whereof, I afiix my signature.

ALVIN L. J UNG. 

